Dining: A full PL8 of Asian cuisine in Barrington

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Updated: January 23, 2012 10:02AM

Luck, color, numerology, tradition and cuisine have converged inside PL8 Simply Asian in Barrington.

“Eight is a lucky number for all Asian people,” explained chef/owner Shawn Li, who together with partner Ed Culleeney, a 25-year veteran of Lettuce Entertain You, wanted to “focus on the plate, the roundness, the ‘eight,’ the (color) red, the Chinese and the good luck.”

While PL8’s menu covers a variety of regions in Asia — from China to Thailand to Japan — the partners yearned to do something that set them apart from the sea of alternative Asian cuisine choices. So they forged an eatery that brought together all their key elements. Now rife with clean lines and a decor of minimalist chic, PL8’s downtown vibe speaks to the modern twists on historical recipes it has in store.

For 2012’s Year of the Dragon, PL8 unveiled an inspired sushi line-up that includes Sushi Chef Chris Traynor’s fiery red dragon roll. Imbued with shrimp tempura, jalapenos, eel and imitation crab, the delicacy is further topped with tuna, “hand grenade” mayo and red Tobiko caviar ($16). The Fireworks Salmon is another dazzling choice rolled with spicy salmon, topped with more salmon, Chinese mayo, eel sauce and spicy house-made chile oil ($15).

While making your way through the provinces and over the Wall to China, don’t forget to stop for some hearty Chong Ching noodle soup, spicy, thick and rich down to the broth. “Every table should experience this unique soup,” said Culleeney.

Li’s choice of fish is Pangasius, a farm-raised whitefish similar to catfish and known in Vietnam for the extra light flavor it adds to an otherwise thick potage of cellophane noodles, pickled mustard greens and fresh red chiles ($13). Word to the wise: A portion feeds 5-6 and leftovers become even spicier overnight.

PL8 tips its proverbial hat to Thai cuisine with the Thai basil shrimp, which mixes wild Mexican Gulf shrimp with citrus flavoring. The dish is also a stand-out for the wheat-free, gluten-free choices it incorporates via the naturally gluten-free glass noodles ($15).

And for a vegetarian option, Li recommends the Sichuan string beans’ with Ya Chai preserve, which offers a sweet-salty flavor and an unique texture crunch made aromatic with dried chiles and spicy soy ($9).

“We know a lot about our food, not only the history behind it, and we continually strive to make it better,” Culleeney said. “We both love what we do and we hope to be here awhile.”